Paris—Day 3

Today was/is Mardi Gras, and in Paris that means only two things: One, children in costume like it's American Halloween, and Two, tomorrow will be busy at the huge cathedrals. Needless to say, I'm glad we've hit the churches we really wanted to see before Ash Wednesday changes the simplicity and beauty of the Parisian churches. We hit St. Germain-des-Pres, where Descartes is buried, and St. Sulpice with its Fountain of the Four Bishops, which has beautiful Delacroix murals and which Dan Brown popularized in The Da Vinci Code. Most of what he wrote was false, by the way.

We also explored a little while at the Musée D'Orsay, which specializes in Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art. We reveled in the works of Degas, Monet, Manet, Van Gogh, Gaugin, Rodin, and so many others. It was a spectacular stroll through the transformed train station, and there was even a special artifact-based display on Gustav Mahler, the famed conductor.

We enjoyed a little Pierre Hermé in Luxembourg Gardens and had our photo taken at the Medici Fountain which was serene and beautiful, and surrounded by couples, including a little duck family around the back of the fountain in their own private pool. If you've never heard of Pierre Hermé, by the way, it's a good little Google moment wherein you can perhaps appreciate what amazing little pastries we experienced there. They are, perhaps, the best in Paris, and therefore the world. The best part is that we didn't have to wait in line as I'd feared.

The gardens were peaceful and full of real Parisians basking in today's warm rays, enjoying picnics, jogging, and leisurely strolling through. It is the largest Park in Paris, and truly a treat to wander through. There are so few tourists, and people all looked relaxed; we appreciated it very much. We did a little shopping at La Grand Epicerie, saw the haute couture boutiques on the South Bank of the River, and headed home for some afternoon rest. We got lost coming out of the metro station, but with a little brave exploration, we found that it was a great station exit, quite close to our apartment.

We ran out for some falafel at the famous L'As du Falafel, and it was Liz's first. We both enjoyed it immensely, and wandered over to the Picasso museum which was, of course, closed until next year for renovations. On the plus side, however, much of its contents is on tour around the world, so look for it visiting at a museum near you.

We made some nice mushroom three cheese pasta with tomato and roquette and enjoyed it with what was one year voted the best baguette in Paris. They hold a competition every year, so the prize constantly changes. I tell you what—that was an amazing baguette; I'm glad we got another for breakfast.

Today was a fresh 60˚, so we planned to return to the Eiffel Tower tonight. A friend of mine suggested that going up the tower often seems a let-down because when you look out at Paris, you can't see the Eiffel Tower. To counteract that tentative disappointment, we planned an evening trip so we could see the city lights at their best. It was spectacular, and I highly suggest it to anyone who might consider it! It was so glorious to gaze upon the city of lights from the highest point in the city, and sneak a kiss or two with the love of my life.